Summer 2011: Barcelona, Spain
July 23-27, 2011 -- Barcelona was the sixth and final city in Europe I visited by train before flying to Israel for a month.
The capital of Catalonia is a fiercely independent, vibrant, progressive place with loads of history. Barcelonians love their Barca football club, tasty tapas and pinchos, biking along the beach, and living life to its fullest. From Franco to the Olympics, this city has seen it all.
Speaking of those mouthwatering tapas. And yes, they taste as good as they look.
And the pinchos are just as tasty.
I have to give a hearty recommendation to Hostel One Paralelo. The location is amazing -- in a quiet residential area near the Olympic Village on Montjuic and an easy walk to La Rambla. The gracious hosts cook a free dinner for the guests every night. There is also a jacuzzi to relax in.
In light of the Occupy Wall Street demonstrations that have spread across the United States and around the world, it must be noted that last May the Indignant Movement in Spain began the first around-the-clock protest camps in cities and towns across the country. Spain has the highest unemployment rate in the industrialized world at 21% overall and nearly 40% for young people under 30 years of age. Here is an Indignant protest banner in Barcelona.
I'm going to now try to explain the passion Barcelonians and Catalans have for their professional football club, FC Barcelona. The roots of the club, founded in 1899, run deep, much deeper than their recent success as the current European and Spanish champions, although that is a source of great pride.
But the bigger picture is that FC Barcelona is intertwined with the Catalan independence movement and the fight against Franco's fascist dictatorship. When Franco ruled Spain he attempted to impose Spanish nationalism upon Catalonia, which has a distinct language and culture. After the Spanish Civil War, these restrictions included banning the Catalan flag and prohibiting football clubs from using non-Spanish names. To this day, the Catalan flag is flown in defiance all over Barcelona.
Catalonians and Spaniards in general are just recently coming to terms with the Franco regime, which lasted from 1938 all the way to 1975. In 1938, the Germans and Italians provided air support to Franco during a bombing raid of Barcelona. During the aerial bombardment, a bomb struck the offices of FC Barcelona. But more devastating was a bombing campaign earlier in the year that killed 42 people, mostly children, who where hiding in the Church of San Felipi Neri. In 2007, there was finally a memorial plaque installed remembering this horrific act at the hands of Franco and his collaborators.
Knowing the history of Barcelona's football club and its ties to Catalan independence and the resistance to the Franco regime, it is easy to understand the team's slogan -- mes que un club, more than a club. Here is a picture of me in front of Barcelona's home field since 1957, Camp Nou. With a capacity of 99,354 it is the largest stadium in Europe.
Now that bullfighting has been banned in northeastern Spain, going to an FC Barcelona match is really the best way to get to know the sporting passions of Catalonians.
Besides the brutality of the Franco regime, there is another shameful period in the history of Spain I'd be remiss not to mention, and it is not even the Inquisition. The 1391 pogroms against the Jews across Spain resulted in some 300 Jewish deaths in Barcelona when the Jewish Quarter was attacked and destroyed. In the years following the massacre, the Jewish cemetery on Montjuic (Jew Hill) was ransacked and the Hebrew-inscribed headstones were pilfered and used to help construct many buildings in the Gothic Quarter, especially at Palau Reial Major (Grand Royal Palace). This is a stolen Jewish gravestone on the wall of the Palau del Lloctinent (Viceroys' Palace).
From Joan Miro to Pablo Picasso to Antoni Gaudi, so many genius artists and architects have left their mark on this city. But the most impressive and wondrous structure I've ever come across has to be Gaudi's unfinished masterpiece -- the Sagrada Familia. It is breathtaking up close. Every perspective reveals new details. There is nothing like it anywhere in the world. It is a must see if you visit Barcelona
Click here for more observations of Barcelona on Green Center Blog.
Here are more photos of Barcelona. Click here to see the set on Flickr.
Here is video of a Barcelona street festival near the hostel.
Riding the Rails: Paris to Barcelona
July 23, 2011 -- After a brief one day visit to Paris, I hopped on a TGV high-speed train heading south from Gare de Lyon railway station to Spain through the French countryside and Mediterranean coast via Nimes, Montpelier-Saint-Roch, Sete, Agde, Beziers, Narbonne and Perpignan . After a transfer at Figueres-Vilafant to a Renfe high-speed train, I headed to my last destination in Europe -- Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia.
It is hard to describe the feeling of speeding past vineyards and palm tree-lined coastal villages at nearly 200 miles per hour. It is amazing. I hope one day Americans will be able to experience true high speed rail like what the citizens of France, Germany, Spain, China, Japan and other nations enjoy.
And I hope that on that beautiful day in the United States of America when our trains travel over 200 mph, that we can look out the window and see wind turbines like these near the France-Spain border powering our country with clean, domestic power.
Here are more photos and video of my train trip from Paris to Barcelona. Click here to see the photo set on Flickr. The 30-minute video shows scenes of the spectacular French and Spanish countryside and Mediterranean coastline.
Places of Interest in Spain - Cordoba
A city of Andalusia, Cordoba is filled with marvelous works of architecture. Many of the heritage buildings are found in Cordoba. Apart from historical buildings, the city has many parks and museums which attract large number of tourists all through the year. Now let us go around this city.
Brief history:
The earliest human presence in this area according to experts can be traced to 32000 BC. The Romans, Moors and Christians left their indelible impression on the life of people here. Some of the religious practices followed by these ancient civilizations are practiced even to this day.
How to reach?
It is about one hour drive from Malaga Airport. The place is very well connected by road from Zaragosa, Madrid, Barcelona and Malaga. Fast train services are also available from these cities.
Boarding and lodging:
There are plenty of villas and apartments where the tourist can stay comfortably. Accommodation is available to suit all categories of tourists. There are plenty of hotels, restaurants and bars which provide most delicious food.
Places of interest:
Tour operators are of the opinion that at least about three to four days are required to visit all the major tourist spots in Cordoba. The mosque of Cordoba which was constructed during the period of Ummayad civilization and later converted into a Cathedral is one of the main attractions of this city. The Mosque is an outstanding example of Roman and Visigoth architecture. The city has many churches of fame like the Church of San Agustin, Church of San Miguel, Church of San Pedro, San Andres church to name a few. Apart from this, there are many monasteries. Tourists are advised to visit Walcha cave which is believed to have been built in 1489. Some of the outstanding works carried out during Roman Empire like Roman Bridge, Roman Mausoleum and Roman temple are other places of interest in Cordoba. Tourists have a wide range of museums to visit in Cordoba. Some of the popular museums are Dioceses Museum, Three culture museum, Bull fighting museum, Julio Romeo de museum and Archeological and Ethnological museum
There are plenty of parks like Park of Miraflores, Park Cruz Conde, Garden of Agriculture, Garden of the victory and Garden of the Conde de Vallellano.
Festivals:
May festival is one of the most popular festivals of Cordoba. Patios festival is celebrated during this period. Private people can compete by decorating the patios. Many people from far and wide take part in this festival.
Some Personal Observations of My Visit to Salamanca
Travel is a big part of my life, but some travel experiences stand out above all others. My visit to Salamanca, Spain in the Spring of 2007 falls into this category. After spending a week in Portugal in the Algarve area and another week on the Costa del Sol in Spain, the visit to Salamanca was almost an afterthought. It was to be part of a quick whirlwind car tour to Madrid, Salamanca and then back to Portugal where my wife and I had to return our rental car before our flight back to the U.S.
As we drove through Madrid, we decided that all we really wanted to see was Salamanca, so we continued on there without the Madrid stop. Upon arrival in Salamanca we checked into a hostel close to the old city and walked to the Plaza Mayor (Main Square). From there we walked to the university area and fell in love with Salamanca. Our one day stop suddenly turned into three days. We were hooked.
My personal interest in Salamanca began during my early university studies. I had begun a major in Spanish literature and during that time I was first introduced to Salamanca, Spain. Three items from those studies ( two of them specifically related to the University of Salamanca) stood out in my mind and made it impossible for me to forget Salamanca.
Fact 1. Salamanca was the home of the oldest university town in Spain. The exquisite architecture in the old city that I love so much dates back mostly to the 14th and 15th century. Interestingly enough, the University of Salamanca, established in 1218 by Alfonso IX, even predates these building. Although the university today offers a full course of studies and students from all over the world study there, the oldest and most historical classrooms (aulas) have been preserved as they were during its early days. As I passed by the classroom of Fray Luis de Leon (discussed below), I could not help but think that I would have had a hard time sitting on the wooden benches used by his students.
Fact 2. The picaresque novel, a literary genre founded in Spain with the publication of Lazarillo de Tormes, used the Tormes River running through Salamanca as its setting. In these novels, the Spanish picaro ("rogue" or "rascal") is used to expose injustices while doing so in a humorous manner.Huckleberry Finn in American literature falls into this category.
Fact 3. Fray Luis de Leon, a professor at the University of Salamanca during the Spanish Civil War was credited with some words that I never forgot. Salamanca was a major factor in the Spanish revolution, and some of the professors, like Fray Luis de Leon, were forced to leave for political reasons. It is said that upon his return to the class room after some years away, he began his class with "Como decia ayer..."(As I was saying yesterday...). He began at the same point in his lecture as if he had never left.
Salamanca's history parallels that of many of the oldest cities in Spain. It was founded in the pre-Roman period by Celts, was besieged by Hannibal, and later under the Romans became a commercial hub. Like much of Spain, Salamanca came under control of the Moors from 712 AD until the 12th century, at which time it was retaken by the Christians.
As stated above in relation to the Fray Luis de Leon incident, Salamanca also played a key role during the Spanish Revolution. The latest international publicity came in 2008 when the main square or Plaza Mayor was used in the movie "Vantage Point" for a shooting, bombing, and riot scene.
Some travel destinations are and should be once in a lifetime experiences. To me Salamanca is an exception. I will be back.
Canyon de Guadalupe
The indigo blue night sky flashes brilliant points of light, and blankets my view in all directions as far as my eyes can see. Except for the occasional cry of a distant coyote or the soft flickering wings of a desert bat, the awesome silence envelopes me. I can actually hear myself breathe. Nestled in the warm, soft, and completely private natural hot springs tub carved into the granite rocks surrounding my campsite, I lay, soaking, without a single worry or thought of my daily life. I feel like I am a thousand miles from home. Guadalupe Canyon is truly paradise, and only a short drive from San Diego, where I live.
Canyon de Guadalupe is a palm covered oasis in the desert with natural hot springs, located 80 miles from the U.S./Mexico border in the Sierra de Juarez Mountains. Founded by Jose Loya Murillo, who first discovered the Canyon on horse back while searching for stray cows, "Don" Jose soon discovered the healing benefits of the mineral water and realized the natural beauty of the palm oasis. At the age of 60, Don Jose gave up ranching and set up a homestead in the canyon. He suffered from arthritis and found that bathing in the hot water cured his pain. The family built and continues to run two campgrounds containing about two dozen campsites each with its own private hand made hot tub. There is a store and a restaurant powered with solar and car batteries, but it is highly advisable to bring everything you will need for your stay.
Getting there was not too difficult on the first try and definitely part of the fun. I had a little trouble finding the campground but once I was on the right track it was a no-brainer. I arrived in the Canyon after driving south from San Diego through the Tecate border crossing and followed the signs to Highway 2 leading directly out of town to the East towards Mexicali. There are tollbooths along the way which accept US dollars, as well as checkpoints manned by Mexican armed guards, but passing through was fast and uneventful.
The "No Fear" Highway 2 passes through rugged mountains with spaghetti like turns where car carcasses lay far below. Eventually, the road descends onto the desert valley floor, and stretches out until it loses itself in the distance. The first road sign warns of Canon De Guadalupe, but I pass it knowing of another way to get there. I proceed about another two miles and turn South onto a ramp leading across a dry lake. This route is much quicker than the first one and saves my car and myself from a slow, washboard, bone crunching, thirty mile, drive. It's important to check weather conditions before using this alternate route since recent rains could leave you stranded in the mud.
The road leads south for 30 miles into the mountains and to the turn off to Guadalupe Canyon campgrounds. The last 7 miles are difficult, slow going and would not be possible without a high clearance vehicle.
Once at the campground (there are two), I check in at the office, order up a wheelbarrow full of firewood, and proceed to my campsite. It's a breeze to get set up since there is already a palapa with built in sink, table, fire-pit, and plenty of room to pitch my tent. This is where it gets good. Just steps from my new abode I find the granite hot tub. I fill it up with hot, natural spring water from a hose provided. The temperature is a perfect and toasty 90 degrees. I strip down, hop in and crack open an ice cold Corona. It's totally quiet, completely private, and absolutely serene. I am in hog heaven.
After settling in and have time to explore, Guadalupe Canyon has plenty in store. Go off-roading, head up the canyon to gorgeous waterfalls, go hiking in the rocky canyons, or explore caves with ancient Indian petroglyphs... or not. Perhaps you will find that soaking 'til you're shriveled like a prune in your hot tub and enjoying the solitude of your own private oasis is work enough. This is Baja and anything goes.
Holidays in Almunecar, Costa Tropical
Almunecar sits between the sea and the mountains forked between two rivers. Pockets of copper and silver mined by the Phoenicians, as early as 800 BC, helped the town prosper for many hundreds of years until the Romans laid heritage to this promising area, the vaults - Cueva de Siete Palacios, salting pits, an aqueduct, and some baths. Later the conquest of the Moors left us with an outstanding monument of the past with the famous 'El Castillo de San Miguel' which was then so named after the consequent Christian settlement that later built upon the castle. The carved histories of cultures grafted into the landscape is also gifted with fertile plantations of sense-provoking subtropical fruit such as avocados, bananas, guavas and the remainders of mulberry trees that once laid testimony to the Moorish silk trade. Granada and Malaga are the serving airports to this destination. The "Shuttledirect" services are available for transfers to Almunecar. Car and taxi hire is also available from these airports.
Almunecar and La Herradura offer up to 25 excellent beaches, all with distinctive personalities, ranging from secluded coves to shingle laden or tide-swept fine sand. The average annual temperatures start as low as 12° C during the winter months to a whopping high 34° C in July. Many of these beaches are easily accessible by foot and for those beaches further away, local transport is well provided to get you there. Beach bars can keep you quenched and many offer freshly caught and grilled sardines.
Besides the grilled sardines, local restaurants and bars can also offer local delicacies such as pescado a la sal, embutidos and gambas al pil-pil, respectively fish, sausages and prawns all prepared in the Almunecar style. As well as sampling the local gourmet, other international food restaurants from Europe, Asia, South America, and Africa complement the unique dining experience that the cosmopolitan city of Almunecar has to offer. Many bars and restaurants stay open late and clubs open to offer the reveler a great evening's entertainment.
Boats are available for sailing, and some training can be found. These are supplied at the Marina del Este and on the beach of La Herradura. Yachts can be chartered with a captain. Dinghies, catamarans, can be rented too.
Windsurfing is very popular in the summer with winds light to moderate. Other times of the year can experience gales, though these are infrequent, please check before departure and daily after you arrive. There are facilities for the beginner through to the more experienced and equipment you may need can be supplied at the shops provided there.
Diving, this is extremely popular due to the diverse beauty of the seabed. There are at least six diving schools. Cave, wreck and night dives are available. Courses are available for all levels.
Local accommodation is widely available, and due to its history, and its cosmopolitan way of life, the range and diversity is enormous. From humble hostels to four star hotels. There is also the diversity of the modern and the old, so rented accommodation can range from being a picture-past white-washed dwelling to a modern state of the art modern villa.
Tapas and Futbol
When we planned our trip, we made a tiny mistake.... Mr L loves soccer. The original plan, like I have mentioned, was to go to the World Cup in South Africa. Once we realized it would be too expensive and a pain to get around during, we decided to do the next best thing, which was to be in Portugal during the Portugal v. Brazil game. Which we are still planning on doing. However, when we booked the first couple of flights, we planned to go into Madrid on the 19th, then fly to Egypt on the 21st. What we didn't know then was that the UAEFA finals were IN MADRID on the 22nd. It would have been fun to be there during the game, however, we were there the couple of days prior and that city was HOPPING!! In fact, our hotel that we stayed at was the headquarters for all the activities, reporters etc that were there for the game. Oh well.
We were pretty tired when we arrived at 10 am, but were determined to stay up all day so we would get into the rhythm of being in this time zone (Madrid is 9 hours ahead of California). We did alright...but it is hard when it is hot and you have a beer and some food. The streets were buzzing with people and we just sat in the shade in a plaza in the middle of the city and ate peanuts and had a coffee, in the true nature of the locals. In fact, my Spanish picked itself up off the ground and presented itself fairly nicely once it brushed off the rust a little. I made it to about 9 pm, then passed out.
We made a little plan regarding lodging which I like so far, but I have to say, I have been royally spoiled! I usually stay in hostels the whole time, share a bathroom and can't really spread out or really dig into my backpack without making a total mess. BUT. Since we work away from home all the time normally, and stay in hotels, we have accumulated some hotel points. Our plan is to use them for Europe, where the hostels are about 30 dollars each per person. Once we get to Africa, they will be more along the lines of 5 dollars per person (or less sometimes!) so then it will be no problem. Otherwise we will be out of money in a month!
So, in Madrid we were in the Westin and our room was AMAZING!!! A junior suite in a 400 year old building with a sitting area and FREE FRUIT (okay I was pretty excited about the free fruit). Oh and did I mention free bottled water? Ha. We saved about 3 dollars by staying here! Anyway, it was a beautiful hotel and it was kind of nice to "ease" into the traveling experience instead of jumping right from niceties to dirty shared bathrooms. Don't get me wrong, I actually LIKE staying in hostels -- you meet a lot of great people who give you great travel tips for the next destination and oftentimes you end up traveling with them as well. But man it is nice to be able to take a long hot shower and then walk around naked in your air conditioned room. Okay, maybe that was too much information. Suffice to say, the Westin Palace Hotel Madrid ROCKS. Here's the crown molding. Made out of plaster!
Enough about the hotel...ON with the TAPAS! I love tapas. Little plates of heaven! My favorite is these little pickled (I think they are...) sardines. Oh...I have a picture. Its not the best picture, but you have to see these so you know what I am talking about. If you ever, ever go to Spain, make sure to get THESE!!!
Okay so basically right after I ate that plate of fish, we ran to the airport to catch our flight to Cairo... I am very excited about the pyramids, although a bit wary of the people trying to take advantage of me. We shall see. Wish me luck!
We were pretty tired when we arrived at 10 am, but were determined to stay up all day so we would get into the rhythm of being in this time zone (Madrid is 9 hours ahead of California). We did alright...but it is hard when it is hot and you have a beer and some food. The streets were buzzing with people and we just sat in the shade in a plaza in the middle of the city and ate peanuts and had a coffee, in the true nature of the locals. In fact, my Spanish picked itself up off the ground and presented itself fairly nicely once it brushed off the rust a little. I made it to about 9 pm, then passed out.
We made a little plan regarding lodging which I like so far, but I have to say, I have been royally spoiled! I usually stay in hostels the whole time, share a bathroom and can't really spread out or really dig into my backpack without making a total mess. BUT. Since we work away from home all the time normally, and stay in hotels, we have accumulated some hotel points. Our plan is to use them for Europe, where the hostels are about 30 dollars each per person. Once we get to Africa, they will be more along the lines of 5 dollars per person (or less sometimes!) so then it will be no problem. Otherwise we will be out of money in a month!
So, in Madrid we were in the Westin and our room was AMAZING!!! A junior suite in a 400 year old building with a sitting area and FREE FRUIT (okay I was pretty excited about the free fruit). Oh and did I mention free bottled water? Ha. We saved about 3 dollars by staying here! Anyway, it was a beautiful hotel and it was kind of nice to "ease" into the traveling experience instead of jumping right from niceties to dirty shared bathrooms. Don't get me wrong, I actually LIKE staying in hostels -- you meet a lot of great people who give you great travel tips for the next destination and oftentimes you end up traveling with them as well. But man it is nice to be able to take a long hot shower and then walk around naked in your air conditioned room. Okay, maybe that was too much information. Suffice to say, the Westin Palace Hotel Madrid ROCKS. Here's the crown molding. Made out of plaster!
Enough about the hotel...ON with the TAPAS! I love tapas. Little plates of heaven! My favorite is these little pickled (I think they are...) sardines. Oh...I have a picture. Its not the best picture, but you have to see these so you know what I am talking about. If you ever, ever go to Spain, make sure to get THESE!!!
The Sun And Fun In Costa Del Sol
In the southern part of Spain, lies along the Mediterranean coastline, the towns, resorts, beaches, golf courses and villas of Costa Del Sol. Following it's literal meaning - “Coast of the Sun”, Costa Del Sol is favored by many for vacations and holidays mainly because it has a very temperate climate. With an average 300 days of sunshine each year, there's no doubt why, Costa Del Sol which was once a typical Spanish town in the past centuries, is now one of Europe's world-renown tourists destination.Without further ado, here are a list of things the “Sunshine Coast” has to offer for all its visitors:
Stretch across the coast of the Mediterranean from the area of Gibraltar in the west to Nerja in the east, the seaside resorts of Costa Del Sol plays the host to many tourists seeking for a seaside fun. The most well-known resorts lie west of Malaga beginning with Torremolinos, Benalmadena, Fuengirola and Mijas Costa. Further along the coast lies Marbella, the playground for the rich and famous, with its famous marina packed with large and extravagant yachts and motorboats. Other known resorts are Pueblo Banus, Estepona, Sotogrande and finally Gibraltar. Each of these resorts are known for its high-class accommodation; sandy, wide and clean beaches with turquoise water - allowing any tourists to lie, soak up the sun or just enjoy swimming. There are also water sports and activities like windsurfing, paragliding and water-skiing in the area.
If you are one of the many who love playing golf then, Costa Del Sol is like the haven for all lovers of the sport. There are around 70 golf courses on the “Costa Del Golf” one of which is the Santana Golf course in La Cala with a series of 18 holes. Away from the coast, there are numerous excursions; touring the cities of Ronda, Seville, Cordoba and Grenada. There are also a number of theme parks and the zoo in Fuengirola is a great place to tour the kids.
At night, Costa Del Sol has an active nightlife With literally hundreds of bars and clubs, you can't just stay in one bar, because you can't help but bar hop.
Another interesting fact about Costa Del Sol is that, it is the birthplace of the famous artist Pablo Picasso who was born in Malaga in 1881. If you happen to visit this area, you can visit Picasso's house, the Casa Natal de Picasso, situated in the Plaza del Merced.
All in all, Costa Del Sol offers anything for the young and old to enjoy. If you are captured by its beauty, you might as well get your own property and continually enjoy the sun and fun in this region.
Spain: Where Semana Santa Is At Its Best
Spain celebrates Semana Santa or Holy Week (a.k.a Easter Week) much more than most European countries and even among any Christian-dominating countries in the world. So, if you are planning to make this year's Easter Week a holy one, it would be best to spend it where the celebration is Catholically extravagant and religiously observe over the years – nowhere else but Spain.Looking back where Semana Santa is initially celebrated: it dates back in the 16th century when the Church decided to present the story of the passion of Christ in a more elaborate way for the laypersons to understand. For that purpose, a series of processions through the streets depicting the scenes from the rise and fall of Jesus Christ were organized.
Today, the Holy Week processions are the largest religious festival in the Catholic world which takes place from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday. Since, Spain holds the grandest celebration of Semana Santa, Andalusia, in particular, is the heart of the whole celebration; involving whole cities, towns and villages.
When you get to pay a visit in Spain to celebrate Semana Santa, you'll witness people are carrying statues of saints around on floats or wooden platforms, they are called costaleros. You'll also notice an atmosphere of mourning: it's as if the mystery of the passion of Christ is relived. Another eye-catching element in the spectacle are the marchers of the procession. They wear robes with hoods which meant to depict Nazareños or people from Nazareth.
The Holy Week ends on the Easter Sunday, the day of Jesus' resurrection. The day is then filled with light and color as church and cathedral bells are heard ringing throughout the country.