Summer 2011: Barcelona, Spain
July 23-27, 2011 -- Barcelona was the sixth and final city in Europe I visited by train before flying to Israel for a month.
The capital of Catalonia is a fiercely independent, vibrant, progressive place with loads of history. Barcelonians love their Barca football club, tasty tapas and pinchos, biking along the beach, and living life to its fullest. From Franco to the Olympics, this city has seen it all.
Speaking of those mouthwatering tapas. And yes, they taste as good as they look.
And the pinchos are just as tasty.
I have to give a hearty recommendation to Hostel One Paralelo. The location is amazing -- in a quiet residential area near the Olympic Village on Montjuic and an easy walk to La Rambla. The gracious hosts cook a free dinner for the guests every night. There is also a jacuzzi to relax in.
In light of the Occupy Wall Street demonstrations that have spread across the United States and around the world, it must be noted that last May the Indignant Movement in Spain began the first around-the-clock protest camps in cities and towns across the country. Spain has the highest unemployment rate in the industrialized world at 21% overall and nearly 40% for young people under 30 years of age. Here is an Indignant protest banner in Barcelona.
I'm going to now try to explain the passion Barcelonians and Catalans have for their professional football club, FC Barcelona. The roots of the club, founded in 1899, run deep, much deeper than their recent success as the current European and Spanish champions, although that is a source of great pride.
But the bigger picture is that FC Barcelona is intertwined with the Catalan independence movement and the fight against Franco's fascist dictatorship. When Franco ruled Spain he attempted to impose Spanish nationalism upon Catalonia, which has a distinct language and culture. After the Spanish Civil War, these restrictions included banning the Catalan flag and prohibiting football clubs from using non-Spanish names. To this day, the Catalan flag is flown in defiance all over Barcelona.
Catalonians and Spaniards in general are just recently coming to terms with the Franco regime, which lasted from 1938 all the way to 1975. In 1938, the Germans and Italians provided air support to Franco during a bombing raid of Barcelona. During the aerial bombardment, a bomb struck the offices of FC Barcelona. But more devastating was a bombing campaign earlier in the year that killed 42 people, mostly children, who where hiding in the Church of San Felipi Neri. In 2007, there was finally a memorial plaque installed remembering this horrific act at the hands of Franco and his collaborators.
Knowing the history of Barcelona's football club and its ties to Catalan independence and the resistance to the Franco regime, it is easy to understand the team's slogan -- mes que un club, more than a club. Here is a picture of me in front of Barcelona's home field since 1957, Camp Nou. With a capacity of 99,354 it is the largest stadium in Europe.
Now that bullfighting has been banned in northeastern Spain, going to an FC Barcelona match is really the best way to get to know the sporting passions of Catalonians.
Besides the brutality of the Franco regime, there is another shameful period in the history of Spain I'd be remiss not to mention, and it is not even the Inquisition. The 1391 pogroms against the Jews across Spain resulted in some 300 Jewish deaths in Barcelona when the Jewish Quarter was attacked and destroyed. In the years following the massacre, the Jewish cemetery on Montjuic (Jew Hill) was ransacked and the Hebrew-inscribed headstones were pilfered and used to help construct many buildings in the Gothic Quarter, especially at Palau Reial Major (Grand Royal Palace). This is a stolen Jewish gravestone on the wall of the Palau del Lloctinent (Viceroys' Palace).
From Joan Miro to Pablo Picasso to Antoni Gaudi, so many genius artists and architects have left their mark on this city. But the most impressive and wondrous structure I've ever come across has to be Gaudi's unfinished masterpiece -- the Sagrada Familia. It is breathtaking up close. Every perspective reveals new details. There is nothing like it anywhere in the world. It is a must see if you visit Barcelona
Click here for more observations of Barcelona on Green Center Blog.
Here are more photos of Barcelona. Click here to see the set on Flickr.
Here is video of a Barcelona street festival near the hostel.
Riding the Rails: Paris to Barcelona
July 23, 2011 -- After a brief one day visit to Paris, I hopped on a TGV high-speed train heading south from Gare de Lyon railway station to Spain through the French countryside and Mediterranean coast via Nimes, Montpelier-Saint-Roch, Sete, Agde, Beziers, Narbonne and Perpignan . After a transfer at Figueres-Vilafant to a Renfe high-speed train, I headed to my last destination in Europe -- Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia.
It is hard to describe the feeling of speeding past vineyards and palm tree-lined coastal villages at nearly 200 miles per hour. It is amazing. I hope one day Americans will be able to experience true high speed rail like what the citizens of France, Germany, Spain, China, Japan and other nations enjoy.
And I hope that on that beautiful day in the United States of America when our trains travel over 200 mph, that we can look out the window and see wind turbines like these near the France-Spain border powering our country with clean, domestic power.
Here are more photos and video of my train trip from Paris to Barcelona. Click here to see the photo set on Flickr. The 30-minute video shows scenes of the spectacular French and Spanish countryside and Mediterranean coastline.
Places of Interest in Spain - Cordoba
A city of Andalusia, Cordoba is filled with marvelous works of architecture. Many of the heritage buildings are found in Cordoba. Apart from historical buildings, the city has many parks and museums which attract large number of tourists all through the year. Now let us go around this city.
Brief history:
The earliest human presence in this area according to experts can be traced to 32000 BC. The Romans, Moors and Christians left their indelible impression on the life of people here. Some of the religious practices followed by these ancient civilizations are practiced even to this day.
How to reach?
It is about one hour drive from Malaga Airport. The place is very well connected by road from Zaragosa, Madrid, Barcelona and Malaga. Fast train services are also available from these cities.
Boarding and lodging:
There are plenty of villas and apartments where the tourist can stay comfortably. Accommodation is available to suit all categories of tourists. There are plenty of hotels, restaurants and bars which provide most delicious food.
Places of interest:
Tour operators are of the opinion that at least about three to four days are required to visit all the major tourist spots in Cordoba. The mosque of Cordoba which was constructed during the period of Ummayad civilization and later converted into a Cathedral is one of the main attractions of this city. The Mosque is an outstanding example of Roman and Visigoth architecture. The city has many churches of fame like the Church of San Agustin, Church of San Miguel, Church of San Pedro, San Andres church to name a few. Apart from this, there are many monasteries. Tourists are advised to visit Walcha cave which is believed to have been built in 1489. Some of the outstanding works carried out during Roman Empire like Roman Bridge, Roman Mausoleum and Roman temple are other places of interest in Cordoba. Tourists have a wide range of museums to visit in Cordoba. Some of the popular museums are Dioceses Museum, Three culture museum, Bull fighting museum, Julio Romeo de museum and Archeological and Ethnological museum
There are plenty of parks like Park of Miraflores, Park Cruz Conde, Garden of Agriculture, Garden of the victory and Garden of the Conde de Vallellano.
Festivals:
May festival is one of the most popular festivals of Cordoba. Patios festival is celebrated during this period. Private people can compete by decorating the patios. Many people from far and wide take part in this festival.